I work for the military and most that know me also know Im a fishing junkie, so I get asked "what do I need to purchase to start fishing around whidbey" about twice a week. With the lack of fishing knowledge that about 80 persent of the chain store employee's have and the lets make high dollar sales to compete with the chain stores that the mom and pop local stores have to do (this is not a slam against either) and then yesterday talking to a newcomer about rod/reels it inspired me to make a guide to selecting your new christmas present. this is only a guide from my experence if you disagree please add to the post and I will pass it along to the young men and women that I share my fishing experence with. Its mostly the reason Im posting it on WFF to get input on anything I have overlooked. Im also looking for brand preference example I already know that ugly stick rods are tough and durable I dont like there weight but any good deals to pass along are just what the beginners need..DJ
WHAT ARE YOU FISHING FOR
What kind of fish will you be catching? What will be the average size of these fish? What pound-test line will you be using? angling technique? – will you be casting lures or bait out from the beach or across the river, trolling behind the boat or straight down under the boat bottom fishing? Make sure the size and type of reel you are considering is appropriate for the kind of fishing you will be doing. Also some reels just don’t handle the salt. Deciding what your fishing for most often is a great start for your Obtaining your collection of equipment. I say collection because after a while you have lots of reel and lots of rods. Some rods can be interchangeable with your reels to cover a few different applications, example I have a shimano Scimitar that is rated from 15 to 50 pounds that I use for lingcod and it doubles as a K15 or K16 Kwickfish plugging rod.
After you have desided on what your going to fish for
Decide what type fishing reel will best meet your needs. If you are a beginner, you’ll probably find a spinning reel easier to cast and fish with than a Baitcasting reel Operation is simple and backlash is essentially a non-issue. If you are a more proficient caster, a conventional reel or baitcaster with an adjustable casting control may be better choice. This kind of outfit will allow you to maximize casting distance and better drag performance; your line with out backlash’s will last a lot longer on a bait caster. Selecting a reel is not merely a question of experience, however. You wouldn’t want to use a nice spinning reel to catch massive bottom fish such as lingcod if you want that reel to lator use for silvers in the river, the salt exposure and the pull of the large rock dwellers will strip the drag and gears right out of the reel. Whatever type of reel you decide upon, make sure you are comfortable with the use and operation of that particular type of product. If you’re not, chances are you’ll experience frustration instead of fishing enjoyment.
Drag Systems
The most common drag on a baitcasting reel is the star drag. With a star drag, pressure is increased or decreased by turning the star-shaped "wheel" located just inside of the handle. You always want to set the drag prior to fishing to just let the line peel out under heavy pull but not break the line. When done fishing loosen the drag and the synthetic washer will last longer and not remain compressed inside the squeeze of the tension lever. If you prefer spinning reels, you’ll discover that there are two types to choose from – front drag and rear drag models. The difference boils down to where the drag system is located on the reel. While location alone doesn’t necessarily make for a better system, front drag spinning reels generally feature larger, multiple disc drag washers that offer a higher level of performance and durability. Rear drag spinning reels may offer convenience and ease of use, but they normally don’t stand up to big fish and demanding conditions like the front drag reel models. The most important feature of the drag system is let it do the work for you, I can’t tell you how many first time fishermen I have gotten into a big fish that pull back when the fish starts a run. Let the fish pull keeping your rod up at a forty five degree and only reel when the fish stops, there are times when the fish are heading for obstacles such as logs, buoys, rocks, other boats etc. first try to move the rod to one side or another and turn (steer) the fish away only pull when its apparent the fish is going to make it to the obstacle.
Ball Bearings
Spinning and baitcasting fishing reels all feature either ball bearings within the reel for smoothness and stability. Many spinning reels also feature a roller bearing within the line roller. When it comes to performance and durability, stainless steel ball bearings are the best. The more ball bearings a reel has, the more smoothly it will perform. Reels typically feature at least two stainless steel ball bearings. Top-of-the-line models usually boast about four to six ball bearings. However, some of the newer, deluxe spinning reels on the market feature up to 12.
Gear Ratio
Another consideration when shopping for a reel is gear ratio, or how inches of line are wrapped around the spool to how many turns of the crank. Spinning reels and baitcasters offer differing gear ratios, ranging from slow retrieves (2:1 or 3:1) to high-speed retrieves (4:1 to 6:1). Reels with high-speed gear ratios are better for working lures quickly back to the boat, or gaining line in a hurry when a fish charges toward the boat. Models featuring lower gear ratios don’t offer as fast a retrieve, but provide the greater cranking power ideal for bottom fishing and trolling applications.
Frames
Most reel housings are composed of either aluminum (die-cast or forged) or graphite. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages. Fishing reels made of anodized aluminum are generally stronger but heavier. Graphite reels are light and corrosion resistant, yet they normally don’t take the abuse of the aluminum. Due to the nature of a spinning reel's design, their bodies are composed of multiple pieces.
Balance
Whether reel you select make sure the feel of the reel is smooth and solid when you turn the handle. In spinning reels, this has much to do with the quality of the cranking handle. If you notice a wobble, it usually means that the reel has a poorly balanced rotor. Newer spinning reels often have a counterbalanced handle, which contributes to balance and smooth operation. Another important feature for both spinning and conventional reels is infinite anti-reverse. This mechanism helps to eliminate play in the reel handle for more solid, positive hook-sets. Any existing handle "kick-back" can result in lost fish when you try to drive the hook home. The automatic line (quick cast) function is up to the fishermen but has some design flaws that kick-back comes into play.
Casting Controls
Baitcasting fishing reels come with built-in casting control systems that help determine how fast the spool spins when casting. These systems can be centrifugal or magnetic, or both. You have to know how to set them, they are not a cure-all when it comes to preventing backlash you must learn to apply light thumb pressure to the spool in order to prevent backlash. An "educated thumb," with the correct reel setting is the best prescription for backlash free casts.
Level Wind
Many Baitcasters reels feature level wind mechanisms, which ensure that line is distributed evenly on the spool upon retrieve. The most preferred inshore reels have level wind systems. You never want to use non-level wind reels while using braid or your fingers will feel the wrath of the abrasive braid slicing thru your skin.
Summary
As you can see, there are many features to look at when looking for a fishing reel to meet your requirements. Here is a list of general size/action requirements for the fishing opportunities in both salt and river fishing.
Steelhead and Silvers and humpy’s from the shore or boat free drifting or tossing hardware. Medium fast action spinning and baitcasting rods/reels usually in the 8 to 12 pound test.
Kings, chums from the shore or boat free drifting or tossing hard ware, and plug pulling Medium fast action in the 12 to 20 pound rating, for plug pulling baitcasting are the most preferred option and make sure the tip action is light enough for the plug to pulse.
Lings and halibut heavy rods again baitcasting rods are the most preferred due to the amount of line and smooth drag. Stout short rods for the heavy weights used to get it to the bottom, Longer lighter graphite rods for casting at rock ledges or vertical jigging with darts are also often used they can be either baitcasting or spinning but must hold enough line to tame a deep diving piggy…
These are just general guidelines! for beginners I strongly suggest finding a mentor and then sticking to him/her like glue
Super-fluffy marabou jigs By- Hillbilly Geek
Marabou feathers generally come in two forms: strung and loose. Strung marabou is usually very fluffy at the tip, but the remainder of the feather is pretty much worthless. Loose marabou is not only cheaper, there's more variety when it comes to size and shape.
The easiest way to make large super-fluffy marabou jigs is to wrap the feather around the hook shank (also called "palmering"). Smaller jigs generally require shorter fibers, so it's easier to cut clumps off the feather, trim them to size, then tie them in.
Here's a mega-fluff:
Step-by-step:
1. Pick the right feather. These feathers are ideal:
2. Wrap the thread around the hook to anchor it, then secure the marabou feather.
3. Wrap the feather around the hook all the way to the head. It is usually necessary to "preen" the feathers while wrapping to make sure they don't overlap. Just grab what you have already wrapped and pull it back so it's out of the way for the next wrap.
4. Palmered jigs tend to be a little thick in the butt, so I like to add chenille or a large hackle to bulk up the front portion. (Chenille is a good choice if you want to add scent. You don't want the feathers to get oily or they will be stiff in the water.)
Secure the yarn, leaving the thread by the head.
5. Wrap the yarn around the hook, then secure with a few thread wraps.
6. Trim the yarn, then whip-finish the thread. (half hitches can also be used)
The easiest way to make large super-fluffy marabou jigs is to wrap the feather around the hook shank (also called "palmering"). Smaller jigs generally require shorter fibers, so it's easier to cut clumps off the feather, trim them to size, then tie them in.
Here's a mega-fluff:
Step-by-step:
1. Pick the right feather. These feathers are ideal:
2. Wrap the thread around the hook to anchor it, then secure the marabou feather.
3. Wrap the feather around the hook all the way to the head. It is usually necessary to "preen" the feathers while wrapping to make sure they don't overlap. Just grab what you have already wrapped and pull it back so it's out of the way for the next wrap.
4. Palmered jigs tend to be a little thick in the butt, so I like to add chenille or a large hackle to bulk up the front portion. (Chenille is a good choice if you want to add scent. You don't want the feathers to get oily or they will be stiff in the water.)
Secure the yarn, leaving the thread by the head.
5. Wrap the yarn around the hook, then secure with a few thread wraps.
6. Trim the yarn, then whip-finish the thread. (half hitches can also be used)
Keeping a minnow on the jig By-Putter
I tournament fish for walleyes a lot and many times, the jig is the preferred method of catching them. After many times without a bite or being snagged and "checking the bait" by reeling up the jig and finding the minnow was gone, I found a way to keep them on there unless a bite or snag pulled it off.
Take any "twister tail" or such plastic bait and bite off a ring of the round part of the tail. After putting the minnow on the jig's hook, put that little dab of the twister tail's body on the hook. It'll keep the minnow on there while jigging for ya.
Works well with freeze-dried or, where legal, live minnows.
Take any "twister tail" or such plastic bait and bite off a ring of the round part of the tail. After putting the minnow on the jig's hook, put that little dab of the twister tail's body on the hook. It'll keep the minnow on there while jigging for ya.
Works well with freeze-dried or, where legal, live minnows.
Steelheading for beginners - By DJFISHS2XS
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Good ideas usually have a humble beginning. My good friend Tracy and I have been asked to help the Whidbey Navy Recreation Department put on a few seminars and provide some basic fishing instruction for returning Vets. These Vets have been off to war for a year–maybe longer, leaving behind their wives and young children. The idea surfaced when some local kids were asked by a U.S. Navy Admiral what they did when dad was gone. The Admiral also asked these kids what they wanted to do when their dad got home.
Teaching these kids and their returning fathers how to fish or how to take their skills to a higher level is a great idea. We’re trying to keep this project safe for the kids, like fishing for trout in lakes or pink salmon (Humpies) off the beach. We’d also like to provide handouts and written guides for the returning vets. It’s our hope that they could learn to enjoy some great fishing experiences or add to what they already know about fishing.
So here’s the first rough handout, please examine it and give feed back on what I left out. I know it’s a large write-up and I suck at the writing but I have a wife to fix that for me. So please help us out by providing just the basic "what I missed or forgot". Thanks in advance.
Getting Started with Steelhead Fishing
It’s a cold winter’s morning; the dawn is just peaking above the Cascades. You toss your offering upstream of the swirl created by a large boulder hiding just beneath the surface. Then you count quietly to yourself, “one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three” as you feel your weight start to lift off the bottom as it enters the swirling water behind the bolder. You know from experience that large boulders, like this one, make a break in the current for a fish to rest behind on their journey upstream.
Suddenly you feel what seems like a hooked sponge. You instinctively pull up on the rod, not sure if you are hung up or wrapped around the bolder. All of a sudden your rod doubles over and your reel screams. Water from the wet line sprays from the spool as the flies through the air, it seems it will never stop. Downstream there’s a silver flash and it leaps high out of the water shaking its head violently, trying to shake the hook out of the side of its mouth. You have a steelhead on your line and you are in for the most electrifying experience of your life.
Many fishermen have panicked at this point, but you calm your nerves and tell yourself not to hurry. Don’t pull hard, let the drag do its job and bow your rod to the eye level leaps of the frantic fish. Let it run when it wants to run, but steer it out of the log pile across the river and keep it from going around your large bolder.
After several breath holding runs, you’re not sure who’s going tire first. But then as the sun breaks over the mountain, the silver shape starts to show just under the surface. You steer the tired fish towards the shallows but as you do, it decides to make one more short dash, pulling the drag and diving but soon it returns to the ankle deep water at the edge of the river. You pick the fish up and slide it farther up the bank to ensure its capture. With a lump in your throat, you suppress a smile and your inner voice screams at the top of its lungs. It took a lot of preparation and study to get to this point.
The above is written from the memory of multiple fish I have landed in my few short years of chasing steelhead. There is a special pride and everlasting fervor of the first fish, and for every fish after. It doesn’t matter if it was a 4 pound first-year hen or the 24 pound *3-salt buck, it always feels the same in the end. The only difference is the variety of the obstacles or tactics that the fish uses to try to escape and the number of times it goes airborne. Whether you’re on the river alone or with your favorite fishing buddy, who just might become one of those obstacles, the experience is memorable. Now let’s talk about steelheading. Steelheading takes a very special breed of angler if you’re going to be a successful. You’ve got to invest in some special equipment. The most important is a good set of waders and a warm foul weather jacket (bright colors are reserved for the lures and bait, dark or camouflaged colors are best). Fish return when it’s cold. So cold in fact, that you often have to dip your rod tip in the river water to melt the ice. This is done because the river water is slightly warmer and above freezing temperatures–so a quick swish of the rod in the river will melt the ice build-up and allow the line to run freely through the guides again.
Between Thanksgiving and Christmas the hatchery fish start to return to the terminal areas at the mouths of the rivers and eventually to the holding and rearing tanks where the fish spent the first several months of their lives. Native wild steelhead start their run during the month of January, and will peak sometime in late February to mid March. The timing of the main push of fish up the river varies a little, but always seems to follow the rise and fall of the river level. The water flow and river levels vary depending on the amount of winter rain or snow and also the freezing levels in the mountains and temperature ranges. A sudden rise in temperatures with the accompanying higher freezing levels in the mountains can cause snow melt and a rise in river levels just like a heavy sustained rain. Angling equipment varies with the angler’s preference, but the basic gear includes a long 8 to10 foot, light to medium action rod (For either spinning or bait casting reels). Terminal tackle includes 8 to12 pound test line, a sinker system to get bait down, the use of hooks for a variety of bait, plugs, spoons or spinners. Some anglers use fly fishing gear with wet flies and sinking tippets, an 8 to10 weight fly rod or even a dry fly for summer run steelhead. Landing a steelhead with fly fishing equipment is an extra special event, not accomplished by the unskilled or faint of heart.
Getting back to the basic or standard equipment for steelhead fishing. Techniques include bottom-bouncing (also called drift fishing) corkies and eggs, just eggs, just corkies, corkies and yarn, a steelhead rag (A small piece of foam with yarn stuck through it), live or cured sand-shrimp, prawns chunks (fresh or cured), worms (plastic or real) or a float fishing with all of the above plus marabou or hair-tied jigs. Other than the baits, lures or jigs mentioned about, spoons, plugs and spinners are widely used.
A steelhead at birth hides from predators in the small gravel on the river’s bottom. The steelhead’s feeding habit is to lie and wait for food to drift overhead, where it can grab it and return to shelter. It is for this reason that the fish will seek out bigger rocks for protection as it grows. The winter fish are not usually active feeders, but still tend to strike because of instinct. Summer steelhead feed more actively for one obvious reason, they have to replenish energy due to a higher metabolism in the warmer river water. A steelhead does not die after spawning like a salmon. They return to the sea and come back to their native stream or river the next year a bigger, wiser and more successful contributor to the gene pool. Females (hens) return to the sea slowly dropping down from pool to pool after depositing there eggs. The males (bucks) will spawn with a multitude of hens, and sometimes look like battered warriors when caught late in the year. It’s this same aggressive behavior that tends to be the steelhead’s downfall. Once you’ve figured out where to find them the rest is not as hard as it seems. Our rivers here in the great northwest seem huge at times. Often, when we’re starting out, it seems very difficult to know how to “break them down”–or know which areas of the river to fish. I use the following guidelines. When I first started steelhead fishing I often studied maps. I also studied the rivers themselves looking for braids in the river (little side flows cutting through the woods creating short cuts for the water to flow through--but separate from the main flow). They are smaller, slower and easier to digest or learn. The fish use this “braids” because they are smaller with slower current. Often, they are also the shortest distance to their spawning areas.
Remember steelhead are always on the lookout for movement on the bank. They will flee from movements on the river’s edge due to land or air assaults from a number of predators including bears and eagles. Because of this particular survival trait of the steelhead, I sneak up on a pool (Also called a “run”) and look over the conditions. This is called reading the water.
Besides looking closely for the long gray shadowy shapes of steelhead laying in pool or run, I’m looking for certain water characteristics. Some of these characteristics are definitely preferred. I look for back eddies, dead slow water, shallow water, fast turbulent water, rapids, sandy bottom and boiling water. After I have mentally noted all the above, I know where not to fish.
Next, I begin to think like a steelhead. Look over the water and pick the path where it will be the easiest and safest for a fish to travel; this is where you will find fish. Then, look for places for the fish to hold (hide) for a quick rest between its exposed travels up river. Look for water between 4 and 10 feet in depth. Small choppy water that diffuses the penetration of the eye of any airborne predator is a good place. Steelhead anglers call this frog water. The under current is slow, but the fast surface water again defuses the predator’s eye. Logs or overhanging brush are also good places.
My favorite is a clay bank, where the water flow has washed the dirt out from under the grass making an overhang of grass sticking out from the bank. I also like a tree that has fallen away from the river with the root ball sticking up on the current side, often it will have a little deep pool of water under it. The soil under a root ball against the bank will be dark in color, which is an excellent spot during extreme cold water. It collects the sun and is slightly warmer then the main flow.
Rivers can present themselves with ideal or imperfect conditions. Therefore, “reading” the water is imperative. Imperfect conditions can sometimes produce excellent results. Small hiding places, in an otherwise imperfect setting tend to be the only refuge fish can find. One of my favorite spots was a very fast 40 yard drop (fast water on the down river end), that flattened out for about 10 yards then went into a smaller 20 yard up river rapid or drop. The upper end of this double drop was slanted down river on an angle, so the little 10-yard spot was also very narrow (maybe 8 or 9 yards). This spot was a magnet to hold fish while they used brute power to continue up river.
You would think a fish in this spot would be tired, but it’s the exact opposite. The fish would work itself up to a frenzy just to make it up the drop. The current break was small but not slow by any means. It was like hooking a fish that was pumping iron right before it bit. This spot also seemed to hold only big fish. The smaller, less experienced fish would tend to pick the shallow slower exposed side, skirting as fast as they could up that shallow side--presenting easy pickings for shore and air predators. The clarity of the river plays a big part. In dirty water the fish are comfortable and stay on the move and are often hard to catch except when you find a holding spot. These special spots might be in an area of clear water coming from a feeder stream or a fast drop they must climb. The fish will hold in these areas for some time preparing to make the dangerous run upstream. Make note of these special spots. Often, trip after trip, fish can be caught in these same areas (one of the reasons steelhead anglers often seem to be tight lipped on fishing spots). In gin-clear water, the fish are cautious or they are too spooked to keep traveling upstream. Many times it’s much easier to catch these fish if you use a stealthy approach. This helps to keep your presence from completely spooking them.
In gin-clear water, a fisherman who is new to steelheading might expect to see the fish clearly. But often, all you see is the gray back and maybe a little of the silver reflective side and belly of a steelhead. A steelhead can conceal itself right in front of you, so don’t wade in until you have “read” the water to make sure the easiest path upstream is not right at your feet.
One of the prime holding areas, especially for hatchery fish is the area just upstream from a side river or creek that’s pouring muddy water into the main river. An example of this is the Sauk River as it flows into the Skagit River. Hatchery fish often remain on the move for the journey upriver, but as soon as they move out of the muddy, comfortable water downstream of the Sauk into the gin clear water of the upper Skagit they panic and look for holding water to gain some confidence before continuing upstream. The first hole above where the Sauk River flows into the Skagit River is in front of the Howard Miller Steelhead Park. This is a great spot to pick up a few fish. Sometimes this scenario is reversed with the fish holding down river of a clear stream dumping clear water into the muddy main river. This isn’t a complete guide for steelhead fishing by any means but it will get you started. When you’re new to steelhead fishing it’s best to find another angler who is willing to share his experience, techniques, and locations with you. If possible hire a guide who will be familiar with the river and the fish.
If you must fish alone, talk to tackle store employees, local fishermen or even fishing club members. They will usually help you find locations where the rivers and streams are smaller and less dangerous. Never take risks when fishing new water. Fording (Wading across) a large river might look possible from the bank. But often, it’s not until someone is halfway across that they figure out it’s impossible. Then, with the strong current pushing you downstream its too late to turn back.
Learning this the hard way is at best a cold, wet experience. At worse, it’s a needless death of a angler. These sad drowning accidents can happen very quickly and the loss of life affects not only the family and loved ones who knew the fisherman, but all who enjoy the use of our great and beautiful rivers here in the northwest.
Do your homework, there is still a lot more on this subject, this is just a start. Solid basics and a little luck should pay off sooner rather than later
Beginning Fishing - By DJFISHS2XS
Lingcod
Braided line…less drag in the current, strong
Spinning or bait casting long stiff rod for casting towards rock pile
Spinning or bait casting short stiff rod for bouncing heavy lead off the bottom
Reels should hold at least 300 yards of line
Storm swim baits shallow and large hook lead heads with paddle or twin tails (glow) (rootbeer)deep
12 to 18 oz sinkers with small or large spreader bars for bait fishing in deep water
Rule of thumb big fish deep water, more fish shallow water…
Salmon (king) (silvers) Salt
Long soft rod for trolling reel 200 to 300 yards of 20 to 30 pound mono
Flashers lots of different opium’s on kind but red and green with flash seam to be the color
Down riggers from a boat, you can catch them with dipsey divers and even banana sinkers to get the lure down
Hootchies and spoons again green seems to be the color but every one has there favorite spoon
Herring helmets for when the dogfish aren’t thick
Good swivels to piece it all together
Salmon (pinks) salt
Same as above but there is no need for Downriggers and pink is the color
Salmon (chum) same as above hard to catch in the salt, green hootchies and herring
Salmon (king) (chum) river
Stiff heavy rod, 15 to 20 pound test line
Corkies, slinkies,barrol sinkers, lead core pencil weight for drift fishing
Pyramid sinkers and spin and glows, 3way swivels for plunking
Eggs or shrimp
Spoons and spinners on a slightly lighter heavy rod.
Size 2/0 to 4/0 gami hooks
Steelhead, silvers river (from the bank)
Medium action rods so you don’t pull the hooks out, 8 to 12 pound test line
Casting spoons, spinners, slinkies, size 1 or 2 gami’s
You can plunk for them too see above
Trout
Small spinning rod, 6 to 10 pound test, small barrol sinkers, small snap swivels
Power bait orang/green/yellow
Small spinners like your roster tail
Dick night spoons
Small fish shaped plugs in diving and flat lining especially when they are first planted in the lake
Bass
Blue, black,olive,pumpkin colord plastic worms
Worm hooks
Plugs out the wazoo
Jigs, craw trailor
Grubs with lead heads
Theres a ton more stuff but this is the basics
Braided line…less drag in the current, strong
Spinning or bait casting long stiff rod for casting towards rock pile
Spinning or bait casting short stiff rod for bouncing heavy lead off the bottom
Reels should hold at least 300 yards of line
Storm swim baits shallow and large hook lead heads with paddle or twin tails (glow) (rootbeer)deep
12 to 18 oz sinkers with small or large spreader bars for bait fishing in deep water
Rule of thumb big fish deep water, more fish shallow water…
Salmon (king) (silvers) Salt
Long soft rod for trolling reel 200 to 300 yards of 20 to 30 pound mono
Flashers lots of different opium’s on kind but red and green with flash seam to be the color
Down riggers from a boat, you can catch them with dipsey divers and even banana sinkers to get the lure down
Hootchies and spoons again green seems to be the color but every one has there favorite spoon
Herring helmets for when the dogfish aren’t thick
Good swivels to piece it all together
Salmon (pinks) salt
Same as above but there is no need for Downriggers and pink is the color
Salmon (chum) same as above hard to catch in the salt, green hootchies and herring
Salmon (king) (chum) river
Stiff heavy rod, 15 to 20 pound test line
Corkies, slinkies,barrol sinkers, lead core pencil weight for drift fishing
Pyramid sinkers and spin and glows, 3way swivels for plunking
Eggs or shrimp
Spoons and spinners on a slightly lighter heavy rod.
Size 2/0 to 4/0 gami hooks
Steelhead, silvers river (from the bank)
Medium action rods so you don’t pull the hooks out, 8 to 12 pound test line
Casting spoons, spinners, slinkies, size 1 or 2 gami’s
You can plunk for them too see above
Trout
Small spinning rod, 6 to 10 pound test, small barrol sinkers, small snap swivels
Power bait orang/green/yellow
Small spinners like your roster tail
Dick night spoons
Small fish shaped plugs in diving and flat lining especially when they are first planted in the lake
Bass
Blue, black,olive,pumpkin colord plastic worms
Worm hooks
Plugs out the wazoo
Jigs, craw trailor
Grubs with lead heads
Theres a ton more stuff but this is the basics
Trolling For Trout in Lakes - By Salmon-Trout-Steelheader
For trolling in lakes, trolling Hot Shot Plugs, Spinners, and Wedding Rings work well. Hot Shots are small plugs used for Trout, Bass, and Panfish. For fishing them, let out about 20ft of line, and start trolling it around. They will dive from 3-7 feet, depending on which size you use. When you get the hit, you will know, but don't set the hook immediately. Wait until the fish jumps, or is pulling steadily for about 4 seconds, then give the hookset. For trolling spinners, they can be trolled the same way as the Hot Shots, cast them out about 20 feet(depending on depth of lake, deeper, let out a little more line), and start trolling. About every 30 seconds, twitch it, or change the direction of the movement. Also every once in a while, slow the troll down, and then speed up again to increase the action, and maybe entice the bite. For trolling the Wedding Ring, you can tip it with a piece of corn, or a piece of worm. A lot of the time, people will troll them with a small dodger, 3" or 4" work well, and tip it with worm. Let the lure/dodger combo out, again about 20-30FT, and troll around like that. In smaller lakes, troll Wedding Rings with a medium sized split shot weight, and the worm or corn.
Puget Sound & Hood Canal Spot Shrimp - By ROCK FISH
By Ron Harrington
Early in the morning, on Hood Canal, I was eating breakfast and noticed a lot of boat traffic. There seemed to be boats everywhere setting square traps with yellow buoys in the water. I asked my grandfather what was going on. He said they were shrimping. We asked the neighbor to show us his catch and he said he would in about an hour. Not knowing what to expect, he came over and showed us a platter of cooked spot shrimp. That was all it took for my grandparents and me. We had to try ourselves. That was in the eighties and I have been shrimping ever since.
Spot Shrimp ( Pandalus platyceros ) have a deep pink/red or pink/orange body with white lines on the head and paired spots on their back behind their head and just before the tail.
Puget Sound shrimp have a unique reproductive cycle, starting as males for one to two years, then changing sex to reproduce as females. Some will change to females at an earlier age, or even skip the male phase completely. This will help the supply of egg-producing females each year. Spawning in late summer or fall the female can produce as many as 6,000 eggs and carries them until early spring. Once hatched they are planktonic for up to three months, then settling on the sea floor.
Shrimping Gear:
Shrimp pots are available at most sporting goods stores, made of plastic dipped wire. To keep the cost down, many shrimpers choose to make their own with 7/8"mesh. If building your own pot’s consult the WDFW rules pamphlet for regulations on design, and mesh size. I use the
McKay shrimp pots with ramp
entrances and also pots that have funnel entrances. The pots with the ramps seem to produce better. Weighting your pots is a must either with lead, zinc, or rebar. The rebar will create electrolysis and may discourage shrimp to enter. Dipping the rebar or sealing it will stop this.
A yellow buoy is required with your name and address. I made my buoys with PVC pipe and two floats, with lead at the bottom to keep it straight up. I even put a custom flag on the top to distinguish them from others.
I equip each pot with 425 feet of 1/4"yellow poly rope or 5/16" on bigger pots to reach the bottom. I have marked every 100 feet. I have also marked the first 25' from the pot so I can see how much more to pull. With the poly line you will need lead weights to keep the extra line down. You can also get a leaded line but at a steeper price.
Most of the shrimpers today use pullers to assist in pulling up traps. Pulling can be done by hand, but this is not something I would want to do. Three to five horse power gasoline engines with a six to one reducer makes pulling 425' of rope an easy assignment. A 5-HP puller will pull 180 to190 feet per minute. Now on the market are electric trap pullers. An electric puller will draw from 32 to 54 amps under load and 90 to140 feet per minute depending on which motor you have. They are not fast but will quietly do the job.
Cat food is the most popular bait used by shrimpers. Fish flavored is a must! In Hood Canal the most popular brand is Puss n Boots. Other baits to consider are the commercial shrimp pellets, ground clams and oysters, fresh or frozen fish. Although with fish, you may attract starfish or crabs so I only use a small amount. The whole key is to have your bait leave a sent trail. Try not to use anything that has shrimp in it. They are not cannibalistic.
Shrimp can be found in depths more than 1000 feet but are generally caught at 40 to 350 feet. They tend to like rocky bottoms, rock crevices, vertical rock faces, and sponge beds.
I like to set my pots (depending where I am shrimping) in 190 to 325 feet of water. While lowering the pot I wait till the rope goes slack then attach my line weight. Now that I have reached bottom I have to let out enough line so the current won’t sink my buoys. This is where having 425 feet comes in to play. In Hood Canal where I shrimp the current is lower so I will put out an extra 35 feet out. Puget Sound I will let out all of the 425 feet to avoid from losing any gear.
Finding where to shrimp is a big deal with shrimpers they won’t tell you anything! The best way to find out where to set your pots is know someone and go with them, or wait till you see people setting their pots and place yours around them.
Now that you have your shrimp caught what to do with them. Most people put them in a five-gallon bucket till they leave the water. I like to keep them in an aerated live well till I hit the docks. This keeps the shrimp alive and frisky. When they expire, the shrimp excrete a jelly substance, it’s good to rinse this off before cooking or freezing.
Other than the first initial start up costs shrimping is fun, easy, and a great family outing for all ages. What couldn’t be better than limits of fresh shrimp, friends, and family? Good luck! And be safe.
Early in the morning, on Hood Canal, I was eating breakfast and noticed a lot of boat traffic. There seemed to be boats everywhere setting square traps with yellow buoys in the water. I asked my grandfather what was going on. He said they were shrimping. We asked the neighbor to show us his catch and he said he would in about an hour. Not knowing what to expect, he came over and showed us a platter of cooked spot shrimp. That was all it took for my grandparents and me. We had to try ourselves. That was in the eighties and I have been shrimping ever since.
Spot Shrimp ( Pandalus platyceros ) have a deep pink/red or pink/orange body with white lines on the head and paired spots on their back behind their head and just before the tail.
Puget Sound shrimp have a unique reproductive cycle, starting as males for one to two years, then changing sex to reproduce as females. Some will change to females at an earlier age, or even skip the male phase completely. This will help the supply of egg-producing females each year. Spawning in late summer or fall the female can produce as many as 6,000 eggs and carries them until early spring. Once hatched they are planktonic for up to three months, then settling on the sea floor.
Shrimping Gear:
Shrimp pots are available at most sporting goods stores, made of plastic dipped wire. To keep the cost down, many shrimpers choose to make their own with 7/8"mesh. If building your own pot’s consult the WDFW rules pamphlet for regulations on design, and mesh size. I use the
McKay shrimp pots with ramp
entrances and also pots that have funnel entrances. The pots with the ramps seem to produce better. Weighting your pots is a must either with lead, zinc, or rebar. The rebar will create electrolysis and may discourage shrimp to enter. Dipping the rebar or sealing it will stop this.A yellow buoy is required with your name and address. I made my buoys with PVC pipe and two floats, with lead at the bottom to keep it straight up. I even put a custom flag on the top to distinguish them from others.
I equip each pot with 425 feet of 1/4"yellow poly rope or 5/16" on bigger pots to reach the bottom. I have marked every 100 feet. I have also marked the first 25' from the pot so I can see how much more to pull. With the poly line you will need lead weights to keep the extra line down. You can also get a leaded line but at a steeper price.
Most of the shrimpers today use pullers to assist in pulling up traps. Pulling can be done by hand, but this is not something I would want to do. Three to five horse power gasoline engines with a six to one reducer makes pulling 425' of rope an easy assignment. A 5-HP puller will pull 180 to190 feet per minute. Now on the market are electric trap pullers. An electric puller will draw from 32 to 54 amps under load and 90 to140 feet per minute depending on which motor you have. They are not fast but will quietly do the job.
Cat food is the most popular bait used by shrimpers. Fish flavored is a must! In Hood Canal the most popular brand is Puss n Boots. Other baits to consider are the commercial shrimp pellets, ground clams and oysters, fresh or frozen fish. Although with fish, you may attract starfish or crabs so I only use a small amount. The whole key is to have your bait leave a sent trail. Try not to use anything that has shrimp in it. They are not cannibalistic.
Shrimp can be found in depths more than 1000 feet but are generally caught at 40 to 350 feet. They tend to like rocky bottoms, rock crevices, vertical rock faces, and sponge beds.
I like to set my pots (depending where I am shrimping) in 190 to 325 feet of water. While lowering the pot I wait till the rope goes slack then attach my line weight. Now that I have reached bottom I have to let out enough line so the current won’t sink my buoys. This is where having 425 feet comes in to play. In Hood Canal where I shrimp the current is lower so I will put out an extra 35 feet out. Puget Sound I will let out all of the 425 feet to avoid from losing any gear.
Finding where to shrimp is a big deal with shrimpers they won’t tell you anything! The best way to find out where to set your pots is know someone and go with them, or wait till you see people setting their pots and place yours around them.
Now that you have your shrimp caught what to do with them. Most people put them in a five-gallon bucket till they leave the water. I like to keep them in an aerated live well till I hit the docks. This keeps the shrimp alive and frisky. When they expire, the shrimp excrete a jelly substance, it’s good to rinse this off before cooking or freezing.
Other than the first initial start up costs shrimping is fun, easy, and a great family outing for all ages. What couldn’t be better than limits of fresh shrimp, friends, and family? Good luck! And be safe.
Dropshot rig - By CK14
The dropshot rig is one of the best but hardest techniques to master. When I first started using them, I hated it with a passion! But i kept with it because it seemed like all the guys in F&H news said it was the go-to bait everywhere! Here are a few tips that can help you get a few more fish into the boat...
The Rig: The dropshot rig itself consists of a small finesse hook tied directly on the line a little ways above the sinker (about 6"-12"). Try to get the hook to stand straight up. One of the best knots for dropshots is the Palomar. And after you're done tying the knot, DO NOT clip the tag end (unless it is longer then needed), because this will be the leader from the hook to the weight.
Gear: Good quality gear is key for dropshotting, from the line to the rod. I like to use 6lb McCoy copolymer for my main line and 6lb Seaguar florocarbon for my drop shot leader. sounds light, but i've never had 6lb line break on me while dropshotting! I use floro for my leader because it's translucent in the water. For hooks I either use Gamakatsu dropshot/splitshot hooks in size 6 or a Owner downshot hook in 1/0. i use the Gamakatsu's for nose hooking and wacky rigging and I use the Owner's for Texas rigging. I mainly use the Owner's for larger baits (to long or thick for size 6). Quickdrops have always been my favorite dropshot weights, 3/16oz is what I use most of the time. A good, quality, sensitive rod is VERY important to feel light bites that often occur while dropshotting. I have caught a few 3lb-4lb largemouth that when i felt the initial hit i thought it was a small perch! A 6 1/2'-7' medium light-medium action rod is good. And a fast tip helps a lot also, not only for feel, but to get good action on the bait as well.
Baits: Almost any soft plastic bait can be dropshotted, but baits with tails that will wiggle work best. Some of my favorites are....
Sniper Snubs (Dark brown or watermelon w/copper flake)
GYCB 3.5" Cut Tail Worms (194J or 240)
KGM Tadpolls (hard to find, but Angler's Choice has them.) (Green pumpkin)
GYCB 3" senkos (176 or 194)
FX Sculpin Robo Worms (Aaron's magic)
How To Fish It: Dropshots can be fished almost anywhere, but they are AMAZING around docks & rocks. I rarely drop the rig right below the boat, but i know many people do. I like to flip the bait out a little ways instead (around 10-20') from the boat and slowly wiggle it back to the boat. I don't like to cast it far though because this will make me lose my feel for the bait, and it will make the bait sit horizontal instead of verticle. I like to keep the sinker on the bottom and wiggle the bait in place, bass cannot stand this. When you do get a fish on, be sure not to horse them in on 6lb line. And after each fish you catch, make sure your line doesn't have any defects.
I hope some of these tips help you out some! Let me know if you have any questions! I should mention that most of the gear and baits i suggested are for smallmouth. I have not used it much for largemouth but i plan on doing it soon!
here are some pics...
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The Rig: The dropshot rig itself consists of a small finesse hook tied directly on the line a little ways above the sinker (about 6"-12"). Try to get the hook to stand straight up. One of the best knots for dropshots is the Palomar. And after you're done tying the knot, DO NOT clip the tag end (unless it is longer then needed), because this will be the leader from the hook to the weight.
Gear: Good quality gear is key for dropshotting, from the line to the rod. I like to use 6lb McCoy copolymer for my main line and 6lb Seaguar florocarbon for my drop shot leader. sounds light, but i've never had 6lb line break on me while dropshotting! I use floro for my leader because it's translucent in the water. For hooks I either use Gamakatsu dropshot/splitshot hooks in size 6 or a Owner downshot hook in 1/0. i use the Gamakatsu's for nose hooking and wacky rigging and I use the Owner's for Texas rigging. I mainly use the Owner's for larger baits (to long or thick for size 6). Quickdrops have always been my favorite dropshot weights, 3/16oz is what I use most of the time. A good, quality, sensitive rod is VERY important to feel light bites that often occur while dropshotting. I have caught a few 3lb-4lb largemouth that when i felt the initial hit i thought it was a small perch! A 6 1/2'-7' medium light-medium action rod is good. And a fast tip helps a lot also, not only for feel, but to get good action on the bait as well.
Baits: Almost any soft plastic bait can be dropshotted, but baits with tails that will wiggle work best. Some of my favorites are....
Sniper Snubs (Dark brown or watermelon w/copper flake)
GYCB 3.5" Cut Tail Worms (194J or 240)
KGM Tadpolls (hard to find, but Angler's Choice has them.) (Green pumpkin)
GYCB 3" senkos (176 or 194)
FX Sculpin Robo Worms (Aaron's magic)
How To Fish It: Dropshots can be fished almost anywhere, but they are AMAZING around docks & rocks. I rarely drop the rig right below the boat, but i know many people do. I like to flip the bait out a little ways instead (around 10-20') from the boat and slowly wiggle it back to the boat. I don't like to cast it far though because this will make me lose my feel for the bait, and it will make the bait sit horizontal instead of verticle. I like to keep the sinker on the bottom and wiggle the bait in place, bass cannot stand this. When you do get a fish on, be sure not to horse them in on 6lb line. And after each fish you catch, make sure your line doesn't have any defects.
I hope some of these tips help you out some! Let me know if you have any questions! I should mention that most of the gear and baits i suggested are for smallmouth. I have not used it much for largemouth but i plan on doing it soon!
here are some pics...
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.jpg)
Drift fishing small streams for Rainbow Trout - By Whitefish
Sometimes when flyfishing, you'll come across a spot that is inaccsessable due to deep water, brush, or a steep slope. Sometimes drift fishing in these areas may be your best bet.Tips and Hints!
You'll want to keep your jig about 4 to 10" off the bottom for best results.
If you cast above a strong current, let the jig drift down, falling into an eddy.
The lighter the line you use, the easier it is going to be to feel a strike.
Using a sliding bobber with a bobber stop is a great way to keep you jib off the bottom, and to see strikes.
Wearing polorized sunglasses will make it easier to spot fish in clear or shallow water.
Click the image for better instructions!
Thanks www.wdfw.wa.gov
Night Fishing- By Whitefish
 | Night fishing can be tiring and brutal, but it is often very rewarding. Here are 5 steps to make sure your night fishing trip goes well and has a worth while outcome. |
1. Know the fishing site - Nothing is worse than getting snagged at a new lake, it's hard to learn where and where not to cast, where the snags are, and where there just plain aren't any fish. Imagine trying to do this at night.
2. Learn what type of lures or bait the fish will bite - Going fishing at a new lake can be a fun, exciting experience. You get to test new lures and baits, you get to see what works and what doesn't. It takes some time, but in the end it is worth while. Trying to learn all this at night could take all night, and thus, making it just as worthwhile as fishing during the day.
3. Be prepared - Before you leave for your night, make sure you have everything you need in ready to go. Make sure you have: Extra rod or reel, hooks, weights, lures, floats, etc. Nothing is worse than a middle of the night run back into town for more supplies.
4. Bring other necessities - Night fishing is alot like camping, when I go I am always sure to bring a chair, warm clothes, a blanket, firewood and matches, snacks, and at least 1 meal. A lantern/flashlight is a MUST, it is good to bring a tent if you plan on staying for several nights, a mid-day nap is always refreshing.
5. Be safe - I always suggest bringing a friend along, not only for company but for saftey. At night there is always the added danger of falling into holes, tripping on limbs, or even falling into the water. Two people are not likely to both fall into holes, or be injured, so if one person gets injured, there is still someone there to care for their injury, or, if needed, go for help.
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